Day 70 - A Change of Plans

Mile 1003.9 to Sonora Pass - 13.2 miles. Distance from Mexico 1017.1 miles

It was a shorter day today with the aim being a resupply at Bridgeport. However a discussion with some trail angels at Sonora Pass car park changed my mind & I headed to Northern Kennedy Meadows. It was a tough hitch but two young high school graduates took delight in picking up a kiwi hiker. With a store, laundry, showers, dorm NKM is perfect - just no internet.
We'd started out with a climb up some switchbacks from 8552 feet to 10583 feet to get on a ridge in the Stanislaus National Forest

Dream Catcher is ahead of me in the next photo nearing the first climb apex

The trail then skirted along a ridge (a rare thing) as you can see in the photo

A bit further along & we had phone reception!!!

From the next point we passed through a small gap in this craggy range

By this time we had completed the first of three glissades for the day. You are supposed to use an ice axe to slide gracefully down snow slopes. Hikers just sit on their bums & skid down disgracefully trying not to leave stuff behind them.  The other form of snow descent is when you stand up & skate down on your feet using your hiking poles for balance.
Sonora Pass finally loomed below from 10871 feet with a dangerous & tricky drop in steep snow conditions making things interesting

At Sonora Pass car park we had a team of trail angels greet us with fruit, drinks, cake, cookies, hot dogs & a team photo celebrating 1000 miles

And lo and behold, another kiwi who spotted my Aarn pack - Monique Weir from........Hospital Hill, Napier!!! Halfway around the world and you bump in to someone who lives 20 minutes down the road

Back on trail tomorrow with South Lake Tahoe the target in 4 days - Independence Day......Weta

Day 69 - 1000 Miles!!!!

Yes sir...at just after 5.15 pm on Wednesday 29th June I reached the 1000 mile mark. A nice little milestone to tick off - now for Halfway!!

It was a long day today but it has set me up nicely for a 13 mile walk to Sonora Pass tomorrow & a hitch to Bridgeport for a resupply etc.
The day started with a tricky ford of Rancheria Creek. I avoided the chest high main crossing and went upstream where it was only crotch high at some faster water. Like yesterday with its countless fords, it was going to be a wet feet day!!!
We needed two climbs to 1) get out of Kerrick Canyon & 2) get out of Tablefield Canyon with one climb of 750 feet and one of 1200 feet. The afternoon was spent making the long haul from Wilma Lake

to Dorothy Lake Pass (at the end of the lake) where we left Yosemite NP.

The total climb of 1575 feet over 10 miles was a pleasant change with a walk up a river valley with a long gradient. In the drop down to our campsite we came upon fresh horse dung which reminded me that on the walk out of Tuolomne I came across a park ranger leading a pack of mules who had carried some workers & their gear on to a trail.
The other constant for the day (& the last two days) has been the bugs. Mosquitos have been attacking in swarms (it brought out my bug net) & gnats have been getting in to your ears/mouth/eyes every time you pass a meadow. The mosquitos have been a huge problem.
The day was made better by hiking with Beardoh & Sweet Pea - a perfect New Hampshire hiking couple who blend well together

Both Appalachian Trail veterans, Beardoh also completed the PCT in 2012 and is back doing it with his wife. My other campsite companions, Lid, XC, Proton, Goodwill & Dream Catcher all started in May so they travel quickly.....Weta

Day 68 - Granite Country Battles

Mile 956.2 to Mile 978.8. 22.6 miles

Carving a trail through this harsh granite walled country is difficult. Walking it is worse. The day was about three big climbs and one horrendous descent. From my campsite it was a 1000 foot climb to get from Virginia Canyon to Matterhorn Canyon from where we grunted up towards Benson Pass. The climb of 1680 feet to 10125 feet was drama (& snow) free with the pass only visible in the last 200 metres. The view was great though from the top

On the drop down we passed the gorgeous Lake Smedberg

and the impressive Volunteer Peak

The descent to Piute Creek was a killer - dropping 2000 feet over 2.5 miles. The loose rocks and big drops were ankle, toenail, knee and back killers. Immediately we bottomed out we climbed again up Seavey Pass with the late afternoon sun inducing rivers of sweat. The 1520 foot climb was a tough rooster and once I'd dropped down to a snow covered Kerrick Canyon I was looking for a home for the evening. Another big day tomorrow with 25 miles the target if I wake early enough....Weta

Day 67 - Closing In On 1000 miles

Tuolumne Meadows to Mile 956.2. 13.7 miles

With so much completed we are still no where near half way!! So its back to the grind today. The shuttle bus back from Yosemite didn't arrive until late am in Tuolumne so I didn't start up until 12.30. I did catch up though with Goldfish & Topo & a kiwi lass from Wellington, Heaps.
Being in a not so popular part of Yosemite, hiker numbers thinned out considerably with the Tuolumne Falls a highlight

Late in the day I camped next to a mosquito infested creek with 3 Canadians for company - Danny, Chris & Bliss.

Earlier on the bus trip we had stopped to take in upper views of Yosemite with Clouds Rest on the left of Half Dome

We also got a view of the vertical drop on the western side of Half Dome

Big day tomorrow with a total of 4500 feet of climbing by the looks of it. I need a good day to get to Sonora Pass in 3 says time....Weta

Day 66 - Half Dome

Once again I was off trail & exploring Yosemite. We did about 10 miles today. The main task for the day was climbing Half Dome which is the dominant feature here in Yosemite with its sheer drop on one side. Firstly, I was successful in climbing it. Secondly, I was truly terrified. The last 200 metres is insane. Quite how people are allowed to do this is astonishing (with our OSH regulations in NZ it just wouldn't happen). The gradient is so steep that you have to haul yourself up up with steel cables with these wooden planks placed as rests every 5 or so steps. Lose your grip with hands or feet & the consequences are deadly. And the granite is slippery....my first attempt saw me bail when I got stuck in a slow moving queue and getting no grip with my shoes. So I retreated to the small saddle at the bottom before waiting for a clear run. Then I just looked straight ahead at the granite and went as fast as I could. I certainly got familiar with my shadow. But I got there...

Coming down was even trickier as trying to go forwards was scary as hell given the steep gradient. So I backed down the cables....and every now & then I would work out how to let someone past going uphill. But I got back down....not euphoric or pumped or elated but relieved & exhausted that I survived. And they issue 300 permits a day for this experience!!!!

The walk down in to Yosemite was hot & dusty & took me past the Nevada Falls

The JMT then drops down to the Vernall Falls where hundreds of weekend holidaymakers were congregated. Vernall Falls are cool as the mist from the drop washes up against the cliffs opposite which you descend through for a refreshing shower

I'm camped in Yosemite Valley surrounded by granite walls & vertical drop waterfalls which is all quite surreal. No wonder this is an icon of USA. Back on the PCT tomorrow after catching the bus back to Tuolumne Meadows. All I have to do is make sure the racoons dont knick my stuff....Weta

Day 65 - Exploring Yosemite........& Agnes

With what in PCT terms was a zero day we sure have done a lot of walking. A group of 4 banded together & headed down the JMT towards Yosemite Valley clicking up 22.5 miles. The culmination of the day was topping Clouds Rest - the highest point in the valley.

That's Early Bird (Sebastian - German guy that always starts early), Thirteen ( from Adelaide & thats how many blisters he had on his feet after day one), me & Bliss (Nova Scotia native who is named after her favourite author & was celebrating her birthday). They were good to hang with for the day - Sebastian talking about Brexit & the impact on Germany. Thirteen & I "discussed" the merits of Australian cricket. Bliss talked about the intrigue that is Nova Scotia while she also was married to a kiwi from Rotorua.
Earlier we had stopped for a swim at Cathedral Lakes - cold but bearable & apparently swimming in the buff is frowned upon in USA - could've told me that before I dived in...

Cathedral Peak was quite striking

The decision to climb Clouds Rest gave us a look down at Yosemite Valley & Half Dome which we climb tomorrow

We ended up camping with three locals as well as Lid & Goodwill near the Half Dome trail. A couple of rangers warned us of a pesky beer (that we named Agnes) who was causing problems at campsites nearby. At around 9.30 pm we heard shouts from a nearby camp suggesting Agnes was around.  Having retired to bed we were awaken by crashing & banging at 10.30 pm. The locals quickly worked out Agnes had been up to our camp & stolen one of their bear cannisters & was trying to open it on rocks. The lads managed to scare it off & get the cannuster back. An hour later we get waken again as Agnes tries the same thing. Having been scared off you'd think that was it....oh no. At 12.30 it was my turn to get aroused & spot Agnes again at our fire pit trying to get at the cannisters. Having been scared get off for the 3rd time you can guess how good a night's sleep happened after that....we've dined out on the stories ever since...Weta

Way 64 - Entering Yosemite

Thousand Island Lakes to Tuolumne Meadows - 19.2 miles. Distance from Mexico 942.5 miles

At days end & while making my way to the campground at Tuolumne Meadows I became conscious of the large mass of rock that is Lembert Dome

If I needed a reminder that I'd entered Yosemite National Park then this was it.
Earlier in the day I'd got an early start to climb over Island Pass at 10227 feet & then Donohue Pass at 11073 feet. Provided you could find the trail (always an issue on the JMT in snow) Donohue was not a problem. It was one of those passes that you did not see until late in the climb. It's up to the right

There was a half mile of snow on the drop down to Lyell Canyon which should have not been a problem but I still found myself granite hopping to find the trail under the white stuff. The drop to Lyell Canyon brought us back to typical meadow terrain

The meadow carried on for about 10 miles all the way to the campground. At the store I caught up with original group member Sebastian who I hadnt seen since Ziggy & the Bear. Goldfish & Topo were also due to arrive any day. Yosemite tomorrow with my Half Dome permit in my hand....Weta