Day 130 - Goat Rocks Delivers A Magical Day

Mile 2272.7 to White Pass - 19.8 Miles. Distance from Mexico - 2292.5 miles

Pretty damn special day. Goat Rocks is always talked of as a highlight of the trip & it delivered just that. With an early start we were soon atop Snowy Mountain with a view to die for. From Mt Adams with some amazing cloud formations to Mt St Helens showing its fissure from its implosion to this almost painting like vista of the imposing Mt Rainier

From the top of Snowy Mountain you could see past Tiptoe & Pacer to where we had come from

On the drop down you can get an idea of the knife edge trail as we snaked along the ridge in to the distance

The Goat Mountains were just glorious in the morning sun and quite magnificent

Looking back up at Snowy Mountain you could see how the peak got its name

Once we crossed Elk Pass we dropped in elevation to 5000 feet but then climbed again to eventually reach a saddle above Shoe Lake for this impressive outlook of the trail ahead (that's Rainier in the background ).

On the traverse down we finally saw a herd of a dozen white mountain goats. They were high above the trail & unfortunately for us in line with the sun making photography difficult. Further along the trail I took a snap that you can just make the goats out in

We dropped down to White Pass in the afternoon where we are camped at a local campground after picking up our resupply boxes at the local store. I took a ton of photos today on one of the best days so far but the one of Rainier & the clouds over Adams were my favourites

Tomorrow we start the 100 mile section to Snoqualmie Pass that will see us go through 2300 miles early on......Weta

Day 129 - Goats & Bears

Mile 2246.6 to Mile 2272.7 - 26.1 miles

Today always had the possibility of being a memorable one and it did not disappoint. We spent the morning working our way towards Goat Rocks Wilderness. After a climb up to Cispus Pass we found ourselves in this amazing amphitheatre of rocks. By days' end we had climbed up to almost 7000 feet and had a fairly good view from our campsite :-)

Goat Rocks are these impressive rocky mountain chains with jagged ridges

There is evidence of volcanic activity with these fence post type rock formations

Yes, there are mountain goats but none have been sighted as yet.
On the climb up to Cispus Pass we got this amazing view of Mt Adams north face

A feature of the day has been the increased number of hikers on trail which creates a few problems when deciding whether campsites will be full or not. We seemed to have caught up with the dregs from Trail Days which is a 3 day expose in Cascade Locks that gear manufacturers, clothing reatailers, food suppliers etc present to thru hikers. Tiptoe & I avoided it & left 2 days after it had finished but have run in to the back of the bubble.
As for bears - well my total on tour is now 3. I was musing this morning how much it was bear territory with flat grassy areas, tons of huckleberries & evidence of bear poop (jet black, shiny & full of seeds) when voila....a big black beer walked on to the trail 15 yards in front of me. It was magnificent in its shimmering black coat and well fed. Before my brain had fully registered what was happening, the bear got wind of me, gave a grunt & bolted (Usain-like) off across the ground. Heck, these things can move - note to self - you cannot outrun a bear. So with my heart going at double time I gathered my thoughts & carried on....as you do.
White Pass is the target tomorrow for one of my resupply boxes.....Weta

Day 128 - The Mt Adams Show

Trout Lake to Mile 2246.6 - 20.2 miles

And what a show it was. The mountains up here in Oregon & Washington are spectacular in the way they dominate the skyline. Mt  Adams is no different. This shot of it's North West face came after a lengthy cloudy period in the afternoon so was a bonus

I stood and gazed at the mountain for 15 minutes watching the clouds curl up and around its flanks....a stunning show. The Adams Glacier is one of the more impressive I have seen

A local in the trail passed the comment that a couple of Europeans had skiied down the glacier!!
The clouds around the mountain were amazing all day including thus lenticular beauty in the morning

Once on the trail this angry gathering of clouds was compelling viewing

Talking of the trail, we were back on the PCT at 10.30 am after a divine breakfast at the Abbey. A big thank you to Kozen & Kirk who looked after us. A big thanks too to Dennis who drove us back to the trail along with the cool Minnesota couple who were at the Abbey with us. Trout Lake was a great stopover.
We snuggled against the mountain all day & have camped en route to Goat Rocks - a bonus being Muffin & Pacer turning up to camp with us....Weta

Day 127 - A Nero At The Abbey

Mile 2216.2 to Mile 2226.4 - 10.2 miles

Well technically the nero is Trout Lake but Tiptoe & I have scored the ultimate trail hostel at Trout Lake Abbey - a spiritual retreat that has a Zen Buddhist Temple in its peaceful setting.

They take us hiker trash in to their hostel accommodation which is the best on tour with comfy beds, lovely kitchen, sparkling bathrooms & set with this view from the bunkroom patio

It reminds me of some of those secluded valleys near Nelson but rather than Mt Arthur or Mt Owen we have Mt Adams - all 12000 feet plus of dormant volcano. This is a bigger shot from the driveway

As much as I would like to climb it you need ice axe & crampons so not happening. The farms down here have seemingly unlimited access to water for irrigation so I saw my first dairy farms since being out here. Trout Lake is pretty small but looks after the hikers including providing trail angels to run as back & forward from the trailhead 13 miles away.
Actually there is no Trout Lake as it was drained in he 1970s as an environmental action to do away with man made lakes for some reason.
Coppertone was back in action today when we came off trail so that was a nice surprise. The trail this morning has a gnarly wee climb which had a nice surprise at the top - I saw my 2nd coyote while out here. They are about the size of your family dog. We also spooked about a dozen elk this morning.
Back on trail tomorrow for the run through Goat Rocks & on to White Pass in 3 says.....Weta

Day 126 - Making It Up As We Go Along

Mile 2190.5 to Mile 2216.2 - 25.7 miles

The day had been drifting along  - lots of trees in the morning with occasional breaks to see further afield. We slipped past 2200 miles - 450 to go - & had lunch at the pretty Bear Lake. But Tiptoe & I felt like we needed a challenge to break the monotony. To clear the treeline we had to go up so we worked out that a clamber up the perfectly named Sawtooth Mountain was in order. Just off the trail it was an excellent diversion with brilliant views - if somewhat daunting as we perched on a knife

edge of rocks

The view of St Helens is as close as we get as the trail veers away towards Mt Adams

Rainier had clouds around the summit but we will get much closer in the coming weeks

Mt Adams is looming large & we will edge underneath the northern flanks in coming days as we head towards Goat Rocks & Snowy Mountain

On the last leg to our campsite we came upon Gillian & Skyler again - Skyler busy chewing on his at hand supply of grass packed on the side

The hood is for the horse flies which are becoming a nuisance.

I am intrigued by trail names out here at times and this one had me smiling as we're definitely not at Trentham

Off to sleep tonight with the sounds of owls nearby. It's a short 10 mile tomorrow before hitching to Trout Lake for a nero....Weta 

Day 125 - PUDS (Pointless Uphills & Downhills)

Mile 2164 to Mile 2190.5 - 26.5 miles

Yesterday we climbed 3500 feet to then drop 2000 feet. This morning we climbed 1500 feet to then drop 2000 feet. So this is where PUDS come in (better than SPUDS - steep pointless etc etc). We climbed all afternoon to gain 3000 feet but this time it looks like we may stay up for a while.
It had been an interesting night as we did not realise nearby logging operations would start at 2.30 am!! Much of the day was then spent locked in trees with NZ type foliage at lower elevation levels

Late afternoon we came over a saddle to espy Mt Adams looking a lot lot closer

It's another 25 miles tomorrow with the 2200 mile marker to tick off.....Weta

Day 124 - Washington Day #1

Cascade Locks to Mile 2164 - 19.6 miles

The last stage begins!! Tiptoe & I were back on trail mid morning to take the final steps out of Oregon. This meant crossing the Bridge of the Gods - with no pedestrian lane!!!

The views of the Columbia River below us were spectacular

The bridge only has a metal grating surface meaning a clear view to the river below your feet....gulp!!

The official state line is half way across although there was a welcome sign at the end of the Bridge

Trail wise it's been a day of climbing which was to be expected after the fall in elevation yesterday to 219 feet - the lowest point on the PCT. Initially we climbed up & around the back of Table Mountain.

We then began the eastwards push towards Mt Adams.
In the walk up we spotted a few banana slugs. These things would make a mess of your cabbages

It's another 26.5 miles tomorrow as we edge towards Trout Lake in 3 days time......Weta

Day 123 - WASHINGTON!!!!!......well almost :-)

Mile 2125.1 to Cascade Locks - 19.3 miles. Distance from Mexico - 2144.4 miles

I'm camped on the banks of the Columbia River at Cascade Locks - on the other bank is Washington so that's close enough. Tomorrow we walk over the Bridge of Gods and voila!!!

In the book/movie Wild, Cheryl Strayed (played by Reece Witherspoon), finishes her odyssey here. Actually she did a 1000 mile section of the trail from Tehachapi but skipped the Sierras.
We are doing the usual chores including a resupply but its nice to have a break. Cascade Locks is named after the rapids & locks that were here before they dammed the Columbia River downstream.
This morning we came down the spectacular Eagle Creek with its waterfalls, deep pools & ravines. The highlight is the trail that goes through a tunnel under a waterfall - pretty damn cool :-)

There were lots of hikers out and I don't blame them...it's a fantastic trail.
So Washington....here we come.....Weta

Day 122 - Using Mountains To Plot The Trail

Mile 2103.6 to Mile 2125.1. 21.5 miles

Through Oregon & Washington there are mountains at regular intervals. They act like a visual map for hikers on the trail as way points on our travels. Today was no different as we worked our way away from Mt Hood with the Washington mountains our new target. Once we hit the Waucoma Ridge mid afternoon we started to get better views of firstly Mt St Helens

St Helens blew a hole in it's flanks a few decades back in a violent eruption that had a cataclysmic effect on the local landscape.
Mt Rainier then started to appear on the distant horizon. It is further away but the highest point in Washington & a big lump of mountain

Late evening I got a shot of Mt Adams which is our first target after Cascade Locks - and is climable :-)

While Mt Hood was in the rear vision mirror it still gave us picture postcard looks

Earlier in the day we detoured past the picturesque Ramona Falls

Late in the day we went back up to Waucoma Ridge to catch the gorgeous sunset

Traffic wise there weren't many hikers on trail today. Not Guilty called at our campsite late in the day heading north while a southbounder Alex joined us for the evening. There was also Gillian & Skyler - a horse trekker who does sections going south but is fact going north as she drives ahead with her trailer.
We also met a couple wheeling their ailing dog in a buggy for his last big adventure :-(.
There were wild berries everywhere today so had my fill of thimbleberries & blueberries. There was also a lot of overhead plane traffic as we crossed under the southern flight path for Portland Airport which is not far away.
Tomorrow we head down the Eagle Creek alternative route to Cascade Locks for a near nero or two - out last days in Oregon.....Weta

Day 121 - Escaping Timberline Lodge

Barlow Pass to Mile 2103.6 - 14.6 miles

The miles travelled today reflect the fact that Tiptoe & I spent 6 hours lounging in the armchairs at Timberline Lodge - a grand old ski lodge of national importance used in the opening shots of The Shining

We had clambered up 2000 feet of often sandy trail in the morning to get to the $15 breakfast buffet but it was worth it with all the American standards on offer. The 20 or so PCT hikers there certainly made a dent in supplies. Tiptoe was able to catch up with her original hiking buddies which was cool. The lodge itself sits on the slopes of Mt Hood which means its the fulcrum for all hiking, mountaineering & skiing activities. Being a Saturday there were hordes of visitors on the trails escaping the heatwave in the valleys to take advantage of the cooler air at 6000 feet. Mt Hood was our hiking companion fir the day and at over 11000 feet is the highest point in Oregon

The Mt Hood glaciers have gouged out huge ravines that have milky streams ripping down them

So it's been an interesting day with early views back to Mt Jefferson while late in the day we stepped past 2100 miles. Another 40 odd miles & we will be knocking on the gates of Washington....Weta

Day 120 - Washington Edges Closer

Mile 2062.4 to Barlow Pass - 26.6 miles. Miles from Mexico - 2089.

Once again Tiptoe & I did not quite reach out target - deciding on discretion with a tough 5 mile climb to be saved until the morning.
Overnight we had an "intetesting" experience with two animals storming through our campsite making noises like bad asthmatics. Initially we thought bear or sasquatch....but maybe just elk searching for romance!!! I was also spooked by other noises but told that they were owls.
It was an interesting day with a stop at Little Crater Lake which is a 45 foot deep artisan fed spring with amazing blue colours

Mt Hood National Forest takes pride in the PCT passing through with this impressive gateway

We also had trail magic from Gilch - a few ales, Asian pears & bars.....a nice surprise

.....Tiptoe looking apprehensive about the 9 miles to go.

Late in the day we finally found ourselves in the shadows of Mt Hood

We've ended the day at Barlow Pass - the 2nd of two highway passes (Wapinitia Pass was far busier) at the trail head. It's a climb in the morning to Timberline Lodge to collect a resupply box & to take in the USD15 buffet breakfast.....Weta