Day 94 - A Trip to Dunsmuir

Mile 1493.9 to Mile 1508.7 - 14.8 miles

Re supply day. After a 5 mile jog to Interstate 5 highway I walked along to Castella where I picked up a lift with Forrest from Shasta City who explained that Dunsmuir was an old railway town. I liked Dunsmuir...a bit like any well cared for town in New Zealand. Amtrak still stops in the historic town

The houses were not too dissimilar to New Zealand

After a hearty breakfast and  "few" milkshakes I was back on trail at 3.00 pm thanks to a lift from two ladies going my way. The day had been stinking hot so I soon worked up a lather as the trail climbed almost 1400 feet to my campsite. I'm the morning I have 2200 feet to climb in the first 3 miles which is followed by steady uphill as we push over 7000 feet in the Trinity Alps. We are also skirting around Castle Crags

Over the course of the journey I have come across numerous Rock Creeks, Bear Creeks etc. Occasionally you get interesting names like the hairy ascent of Butt Mountain, the pristine waters of Poison & Sulphur Springs and the nearby delightfully named town of Weed. But on the way up this afternoon there was one that tops the lot....Burstarse Creek

Did I taste the perfumed waters?? Well....yeah...nah.

Oh...and I passed 1500 miles today....Weta

Day 93 - What Did I Do To Upset Bees??

Mile 1471.1 to Mile 1493.9 - 22.8 miles

For the last few weeks it has been noticeable that the bees have been "active" in & around the trail. Usually they hassle Tiptoe - we blame her pink shorts. But today was my turn. At lunch I became surrounded by them & one got up my shirt to sting my back. An hour later one then stung me on the hand when I was walking. They look a bit like our wasps but being bees, I am always loathe to swat them - may have to rethink that!!

The day passed without too much other drama. Our combined climb of 7000 feet was much more bearable today with decent shade. I had a few catch ups today including Digger who I haven't seen since mile 650. After lunch we had nice views of Mt Shasta from the west - looking very non-Taranaki like now

On its western flank it has a very volcanic like peak that is very prominent

I have ended up camping 5 miles short of Interstate Highway 5 & Castle Crag Park where the others are. I can hear the traffic & trains from here. The group will be splintered for a bit as Mowgli is going to resupply & head up trail tomorrow morning. Tiptoe & the others are going to zero in Dunsmuir. I am going to resupply tomorrow & get back on trail in the afternoon. I plan no stops until Oregon which I figure is about 9 days hiking away.
I had a fire tonight to keep the bugs away but you have to be careful when dry camping to make sure you bring enough water in. Actually my meals for the last two nights have been better than normal. Tiptoe had a spare freeze dried chicken & rice dish which was yummy while I scored a Mountain House beef stew tonight that filled me up nicely....Weta

Day 92 - Shasta & the Heatwave

Mile 1444.8 to Mile 1471.1 - 26.3 miles

Phew - two marathons in two days!! The day had two phases. The first 14 miles were undulating with great views including the 14,100 foot Mt Shasta - this being about the closest we'll get

We could also see northwest but I could not be sure whereabouts we were heading. We also jagged back south on occasions with a view of Mt Lassen every now & then

In the afternoon we dropped 3400 feet over 12 miles to cross the McCloud River. The river was an intetesting grey/blue colour that occasionally came up as turquoise.
The deer have been very inquisitive of late & have no fear of humans. This deer got up within 10 paces of me

The other constant today was heat and it's going to get worse in coming days. It was so hot - even in the shade. It's going to get in to the 40s in the next few days & at lower altitude but I have to deal with it. Pretty easy being a weather forecaster here - clear blue skies & sunny & your job is done.
We camped on a road edge tonight to avoid bugs near a creek with the reward of a couple of bits of trail magic - some day hikers gave us some left over food & anglers gave us fresh fruit....Weta

Day 91 - The Green Corridor Returns

Mile 1416.5 to Mile 1444.8 - 28.3 miles

The big miles day returned with some vigour with a 28.3 mile effort. Apart from a 2000 foot climb in the morning the rest of the day was not overly taxing.
After leaving the vortex of people at Burney Falls we passed a hydro dam holding the water of Lake Britton

We haven't had a lot if dams on tour so far. The climb in the morning brought us out on an exposed ridge for lunch where we had great views of Mt Shasta.

The rest of the day was spent edging closer to the base of the mountain before passing over the Bartle Gap to our campsite.
In mid afternoon I was chatting to Cracker (a very personable guy from New Jersey whom I have crossed paths with the last few days) when two runners bowled up. They stopped briefly & we discovered that one of them was Carl from Belgium with one of his support crew. He is having a crack at the supported record for the PCT being 52 to 53 days at an average of 50 miles a day. He had left Campo on 22nd June (it's taken me 3 months to hike this far when it's taken him 30 days). He mentioned that he had been to New Zealand & loved it - a common theme from people who travelled to our fair land (apart from the German who said we were too expensive). Everyone else says they so much want to go to New Zealand. I've been handing out invitations to stay with us in Hawkes Bay so I hope they dont all turn up at once......Weta

Day 90 - Almost a Nero

Mile 1405.9 to Mile 1416.5 - 10.6 miles

As you can see it was a pretty cruisy mile day. A mile or so from our camp was the Burney Guest Ranch which attracted our attention for 10 hours.  It was an excellent option as the hosts Mike & Linda had great home cooked food, showers, laundry, Wi-Fi,  re supply options etc. It was also good to catch up with fellow hikers on the patio

The services building was well used by the hikers

Notice the red scoria driveway which is common around here.
The break also allowed Proton & Dream Catcher to catch up. We eventually camped at Burney Falls State Park campground where Aussie Tupac joined us - he carries an Aarn pack like me hence Two Packs. The Burney Falls themselves are interesting as some of the falls appear as a ribbon halfway down the rock face having emerged from underground rivers.
When walking on to Burney Guest Ranch we noticed this impressive Osprey nest on top of a pylon

A large bird of prey was stalking the nest looking for lunch but we couldn't agree on what it was....Weta

Day 89 - Rim Walking

Mile 1379 to Mile 1405.9 - 26.9 miles

The mileage today pushed us to 100 miles in 4 days - that's the most for me in one stretch. The day was spent walking the Hat Creek Rim and then later traversing the volcanic basin with its black cinder pits & lava type terrain. The concentration required avoiding the rocks in the track meant any gawking usually was followed by the crunch of your toes smashing in to solid mass. On top of the Rim, we got excellent views of Mt Shasta most of the day

We pass to the south of the mountain as we head west to the Trinity Alps....just before Oregon!! It was hot today with little or no shade....very desert like. It was also a 30 mile waterless stretch unless we dropped down a 300 foot canyon to a spring.....which we did

Also I spotted these yellow ladybird type bugs - first time I'd seem these on trail

Coppertone was back at lunch with his root beer floats which was heaven & a pick me up for a slow morning.
Tomorrow we stop at Burney Guest Ranch for showers, camping & re-supply. The half day will allow Proton & Dream Catcher to join up again as they are just behind.....Weta

Day 88 - New Shoes

Mile 1350.4 to Mile 1379 - 28.6 miles

This represents my longest day of the journey although it is not as torrid as it sounds. My first target was getting to Old Station P.O. where my new shoes were waiting. I managed to tear off that 20 miles by just after 1.30 pm as it was mainly flat to downhill for the trip in. The going was through a major wildfire area & then a commercial pine forest. Old Station is really just a campground & small store so not much happening but my new shoes had arrived from REI. I farewelled the old ones after 670 miles which wasn't bad considered the battering they took from water & snow in the Sierras

After a break we continued on to the Hat Creek area which has had a lot of volcanic activity. We are actually camped on what is known as Hat Creek Rim with a view down in to the valley below & north to the Taranaki like volcanic cone of Mt Shasta. In the climb up to the Rim I turned around to get this shot of Mt Lassen

The evening has been completed by a full moon which looks amazing. Another 26 miles tomorrow along the dry Rim where we have to be careful with water....Weta

Day 87 - The Mental Battles Begin

Mile 1328.8 to Mile 1350.4 - 21.6 miles

The battle begins. On a day when your view was generally limited to the tall trees in your line of sight, the mental game kicks in. Today was even tougher with my mind elsewhere after a sleepless night mulling over some matters. At least the lunch break was a nice spot

We also had a nice surprise after lunch with the Thompson's trail magic box & Gatorade

Late in the afternoon we entered the Lassen Volcanic area with the waft of sulphur filling the nostrils. The Boiling Spring Lake was next to the trail - could be Rotorua

Our trio is camped at mile 1350 with 3 Bucks & Rusty. Mowgli had an interesting day with two bear sightings including one with a fawn in the bear jaws. The deer around here are pretty dumb as they don't seem too perturbed by our appearance. We were also on couga watch as there has been some activity recently. New shoes tomorrow at Old Station P.O. ......Weta

Day 86 - HALF WAY!!!!!

Mile 1302.9 to Mile 1328.8 - 25.9 miles

At 2.45 pm on Saturday 16th July I have finally reached the halfway point on the trail - a great feeling knowing that every step is now closer to Canada than Mexico.

It also meant a team photo with Tiptoe & Mowgli

Now for Oregon!!!
The day itself went by quickly with no real major climbs and a nice 2500 foot descent to finish the day before we headed to Chester for a resupply etc.
Just before lunch we found ourselves in and around the mountain that provided some mirth that I will leave to your imagination

So now we head in to drier areas as California reminds us how patched it is here.....Weta

Day 85 - No Gain Without Pain

Belden to Mile 1302.9 - 18.6 miles

We knew it was coming. That didn't mean that it made it any easier. Over 11.5 miles we climbed almost 5000 feet to regain what we had dropped yesterday. Thats a lot of sweat lost & a lot of grunt & groan. But we did it.
Tiptoe, Mowgli & I farewelled Booboo this morning hopeful that she can overcome her planta fascia & tendonitis issues. We edged along the gorge to our starting point of the climb looking down at the Feather River with the highway on one side & the road in the other - a bit like the Manawatu or Buller Gorges

We'd got away later than normal so by the time we hit the bottom of the climb it was 10.30 am & very hot. I was bathed in sweat & conscious also of avoiding the clumps of poison oak. The first 3 miles up to Lassen National Forest boundary were all exposed due to a previous forest fire which made life uncomfortable - the sight of hummingbirds at work the only relief.
Once the shade arrived it made life more bearable although I made things worse for myself when I lost balance in a ford and got soaked up to my waist.
After sweating it out until 5.00 pm we finally reached the top of Frog Mountain where Mowgli was perched gazing at Mt Lassen in the distance

Not long after we want through the 1300 mile mark

I spent the last 3.5 miles to camp looking around me at all times as mountain lions have been active here in recent times. Let's hope "Garfield" is not busy tonight. Chester for a quick resupply tomorrow and also halfway.......Weta

Day 84 - Down Down Down

Mile 1261 to Belden - 23.3 miles. Distance from Mexico 1284.3 miles

The day started at Nancy's Place with a magnificent breakfast of pancakes, bacon, egg bake & fresh fruit. This host & her family are wonderful. They keep a couple of pet birds of prey - a hawk & this kestrel chowing on its breakfast

Nancy then drove us back to the trailhead. Here she is opening the door to allow smelly hikers in

We were on trail a little more than an hour before we hit Bucks Summit Pass where Coppertone had set up to provide hikers was floats - ice cream in creaming side or root beer...mmmm.

That set me up nicely for the 1500 foot climb that followed. But the big mover of the day was at the end when we twisted through 42 switchbacks to drop 4000 feet to Belden - mostly in the last 5 miles

It's a while since we have been at 2200 feet. But Belden is in a valley so guess what we are doing tomorrow..... Still, I pitied the poor hikers going up the climb.
Belden is really just a resort next to the north fork of the Feather River. The hotel is really everything...the photo showing Afro Man, Great White Turtle, Mowgli & Booboo on the deck

It was very hot today & likely to be so tomorrow so we'll be on the road early to start 14 miles of climbing....Weta

Day 83 - The Green Corridor to Nancy's Place

Mile 1236 to Mile 1261 - 25 miles

I see I loaded the previous day as 83 in error so now we have two days of 83 :-).
The day was spent almost entirely in a green corridor of trees which only changed when we topped out after a big climb in the afternoon

We dropped 3000 feet in the morning to cross the middle fork of the Feather River which had this impressive bridge over the swirling waters below

We then had the mortification of reclimbing those 3000 feet over 8 miles in the afternoon...when it was very hot but thankfully we had shade most of the day.
At the days end I walked a further two miles to the Trail Angel house of Nancy Williams at Bucks Lake where she & her family host PCT hikers. That meant a hot shower, laundry & being fed home cooked meals - crumbed chicken, potato bake, salad etc. We then get to cowboy camp on the patio - about 20 of us all up. It was a neat evening with plenty of chat & catching up. One guest was Hollywood - an English girl who has lived in NZ for 12 years & runs a tourism business in Paihia.

Here's the patio of the house with Morning Glory excited to be there - she has her 70 year old Dad in this section whom I chatted to. He had spent time in NZ when he was based in Sydney. So with a full belly we drifted off to sleep eventually. ...Weta

Day 83 - Keeping It Together

Mile 1209.2 to Mile 1236 - 26.8 miles

With no major targets or vistas to bank today, it was a case of keeping it together as the miles ticked by. Occasionally you got the chance to walk with fellow hikers which helped to wind the clock on. Tiptoe had got ahead of me today but late in the afternoon I got the chance to walk with a Swiss girl- Hilarious Turtle - who was interesting. The trail name comes from her pack - a German Deuter pack which is green & very tall hence the tortoise shell. The day consisted of two climbs - one either side of lunch. The morning was about a 1000 foot climb which was being maintained by trail volunteers so it was nice to get the chance to say thanks. At the top of the saddle I got 4G so was able to order some new shoes, pay bills, clear emails & update the blog. I also could see we were getting closer to Mt Lassen

In the afternoon there was a gnarly climb complete with some nasty steep pitches that rose 1800 feet over 6 miles up to Bunker Hill. In the afternoon I spotted a fire lookout high on a rocky point

There had also been one at the Sierra Buttes as this is a Northern California area susceptible to forest fires, as is Washington State so fingers crossed we have no issues.....Weta

Day 81 - A Trip to Sierra City

Mile 1190.7 to Mile 1209.2 - 18.5 miles

With a population of 225 the use of the word city in Sierra City is poetic license at its extremity. But I loved the town - a bit like an Arrowtown or Waihi with original buildings still in use.

This is the General Store where the hikers resupply, charge phones, collect mail etc (with Tiptoe giving the royal New Hampshire wave). Looking back up the main street with its Post Office, Library, Information Centre, Diner etc

We'd made a quick 4.5 miles in the morning to reach the main road for a 1.4 mile road walk & breakfast.
The store had mail for me being my maps posted earlier. After doing my resupply, checking emails, eating more food, Tiptoe & I were back on trail at 1.30pm. The town was a distant memory as we climbed from 4591 feet to 7400 feet over 8.4miles - including a stop at mile 1200 where Tiptoe was having trouble getting her pack on with its 5 day supply of food

The climb included a mean as mother of a switchback as we circled around under the Sierra Buttes

But we eventually topped out & made an extra 5 miles to our campsite where Mowgli joined us. A good day all round with some great views in the climb & caught up with loads of hikers at Sierra City....Weta

Day 80 - Mr Grumpy

Mile 1164.7 to Mile 1190.7 - 26.3 miles

Some days you just lose it. It's a combination of things and today was the perfect storm. It was cold first thing and once we got up on the tops the westerly wind was bitter. Maybe the fact that the Trail was consistently on the exposed side accounted for my mood. When the trail did cross to the east it was too hot - ah..
California weather!! The crunch came (literally) when for the 63rd time I booted a stray rock on the trail that caught my left big toe. The excruciating pain was followed by a profound list of expletives repeated verbally with vigour. This concurrently occurred at the same time as a hiking pole was hurled towards Canada.
The rest of the morning was like that - my right heel is split badly & bruised, causing me grief. The downhills were hurting my back. My pack wasn't sitting right. My hiking poles kept wedging themselves in rocks or finding numerous ways of falling to the ground. The phone coverage coincided with Antarctic like conditions. I was in a foul mood.
Having got that off my chest the day was largely uneventful. We got a nice view north on the edge of Mt Lacy

The snowy peak in the distance could be Mt Lassen ...or not.
We dropped 2300 feet during the day ending at 5238 feet. We also passed Jaackson Meadows reservoir which had a nice view

There weren't too many hikers on trail but the campsite had a good muster with Tiptoe, Mowgli, Booboo, 3 Bucks, Checkmate, Pinky, Natural & a few others on deck. I'd spend a couple of hours with 3 Bucks (from Chester UK) talking about Grimsby Town FC, English football, US politics , Brexit & all manner of stuff which helped pass the time.
We will be up and gone early in the am to get to Sierra City for breakfast and a resupply etc.
Day 80 means I am nearing half way time wise if I finish at the end of September. I'm still 130 miles from midway point on the trail itself but I'm happy with where I am.....Weta

Day 79 - Planes, Trains, Automobiles.....People & the Weather

Mile 1137.6 to Mile 1164.4 - 26.8 miles

A busy day today. Planes - there was a lot of activity yesterday which made sense today when a local on the trail advised that there was an Air Show at nearby Truckee. You could see it from the top of a ridge mid morning. Trains - at Donner Pass we passed over a railway tunnel. I know this as the old route is visible as a walk including going through the snow sheds. Automobiles - passed under another busy highway with Highway 80 taking people to Sacramento only 90 minutes away. The noise travelled afar as I could hear it my tent at night 6 miles away. People - Donner Pass area is popular with lots of day hikers, trail runners & dog walkers as well as sightseers & rock climbers. Talked to a chap from Sacramento with his two older kids who was interesting. Also had a day hiker give us Starburst sweets which was nice. The Weather - it was windy today with the exposed ridge between Tinker Knob & Mt Lincoln having us hanging on to hats, packs, poles etc.
Trail wise we started with a 1300 foot climb to reach the edge of Squaw Valley ski area where there was a nice view if Lake Tahoe

We then traversed around to get sight of Tinker Knob which we traversed this side of - 1300 feet to the saddle

From the saddle & looking north we could see he ridge towards Mt Anderson & a skyine that was not so lumpy

At the historically significant Donner Pass  there was a lot if activity with the skifields, walking trails, mountain biking etc. We also had some well received trail magic waiting for us

And Donner Pass with one of its lakes

The bar down the road was offering a free drink with a burger for PCT hikers which sounded better than my sardines cheese & peanut butter.
I did catch up with Tiptoe & Mowgli who were just leaving the pass as I hiked in. I also hiked late am with Maniac from Atlanta, Georgia - gotta love that accent!!!
I originally planned to stay at a hut on trail but when I got there I realised that the standard was not up to NZ back country hut expectations. It wasn't helped by the close proximity of a fresh smelling long drop so yeah.....nah. So I pushed on for another 3.5 miles to make it a busy day....Weta